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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.